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The Best Way to Get Rid of Rats in Your Chicken Coop

So you have a rat problem? We’ve been there. And even when it seems hopeless, know that there is a light at the end of the tunnel. Follow this step-by-step guide of the best way to get rid of rats in the chicken coop.

Years ago we had a rodent infestation in our chicken coop. The rodent population was so huge that the rats were seen at all hours of the day, and some even made their way into our house looking for food. Our young chicks were attacked by the rats, and they were eating a substantial amount of our chicken feed. Rats in the coop is a problem that many backyard chicken keepers face, and if you’re struggling with it, don’t fear, there is a solution.

After much trial and error, we found the best way to get rid of rats in the chicken coop. Follow the steps below and you’ll be rat-free within a few weeks!

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A rat standing on the floor

The Best Way to Get Rid of Rats in Your Chicken Coop

Step 1: Know your Enemy

Before we head right into how to get rid of rats, it’s important to know some basic facts about your problem. You can’t defeat your enemy if you don’t know them, right?

Good-to-know Rat Facts:

A pair of rats can produce up to 2,000 descendants per year. Which means a couple of rats around your chicken coop can quickly lead to a rat infestation if it goes unchecked.

Rats are creatures of the night. If you’re seeing them during the day, you have a major problem. Either you’re looking at an infestation or they’re starving and so desperate for food they’ll do anything to get it.

Rats have teeth harder than iron. They can chew through a number of things they shouldn’t logically be able to such as:

  • Chicken wire
  • Cinder blocks & bricks
  • Plastic totes and garbage cans
  • Lead pipes
  • Wood, regardless of thickness
  • Drywall

Basically, anything that’s not thick steel is susceptible to rat teeth.

Rats can squeeze through small spaces as tiny as the diameter of a quarter. Some can even squeeze through the holes in chicken wire. This fact combined with chewing is why chicken wire is not your best defense.

Rats will kill and eat baby chicks and in desperation will also attack grown chickens.

They are known to be carriers of a number of horrific things such as fleas, mites, plague, salmonella, hantavirus and hemorrhagic fever.

Rats can dig several feet deep and jump up to eight feet high. They are also expert climbers and can access your coop or run from above if it’s not protected.

Rats can go a longer time without water than a camel can. They can survive a long time in water- they’ve been known to be able to tread water for three days and swim a quarter of a mile.

Rats will eat practically anything, including your garden veggies and your livestock.

A rooster in front of a chicken coop full of hens

Now that you know all about them, how in the world do you get rid of rats?

To get rid of rats in the chicken coop you’re going to need to take a three-pronged approach. You’ll need to take away their home, starve them out, and go to war on any rats that are left.

First off, you’ll need to take several steps to make your property as unappealing as possible to a couple of rats looking to eat, sleep, and mate.

Step 2: Take Away Their Home

If you’re giving rodents a wonderful place to live, why would they want to leave?

Your first task is to make your property a terrible place for a rodent to live. This will not eliminate every last rat, but it will help to get them out in the open and discourage them from nesting and making thousands of rat babies in and around your coop.

Clean up clutter

Rats love to live and hide in cluttered areas. If you have piles of tools, bricks, wood, leaves, or junk on your property, you can bet the rats are living in it. Get everything up off the ground. Put it on shelves or hang it from walls to discourage rats from making a home there.

Make an effort to keep grass trim around the coop as well, don’t give those rats anywhere to hide.

Rat-proof the chicken coop

Let me start by saying this is incredibly hard to do. When it comes to rats, if there’s a will there’s a way.

If your coop is made of wood or has a dirt floor, you’re likely to get rats chewing or digging their way into your coop at night. If you have the option to build the coop from scratch, build it up off the ground at least a foot to make it harder for rats to hide and enter the coop. Alternately, make your coop floor out of poured cement.

If your floor is wood or dirt, cover it with hardware cloth and be sure to cover corners and edges well. If you can, fold the hardware cloth where it meets the wall and staple it into the wall a few inches up as well.

Rats are most likely to enter through corners or places where the walls meet the floor or ceiling.

A rooster framed by the chicken coop door

Fill and cover holes

If rats have chewed holes into your coop or underneath it, fill the holes with steel wool and cover them with hardware cloth or wire mesh. Fill any holes in the soil around your coop as well, as rats love to tunnel. Be adamant about filling holes, if they make new ones the next day, fill those too.

Remember, you’re trying to convince their tiny brains that this is not an ideal place to live, and it’s going to take some work.

Rat-proof the compost

Many people that raise chickens also have a compost pile. If you don’t, feel free to move along to the next tip, but if you do, you’re going to need to get that pile on lock down.

Rats and mice love to live in compost. It has everything they need, comfy bedding, a safe place to breed, and plenty of food. If you don’t want rats living in your compost you’ll have to make it as uncomfortable for them as possible.

First off, stop putting food scraps into an open bin. Instead, put them into a steel garbage can with small holes drilled into it. This will allow the matter to compost until it’s sufficiently broken down without rodents being able to get to it.

When we were dealing with rats we read over and over that rats only go after cooked food in the compost. This is not true, if they’re hungry, they’ll eat anything in there that’s edible. Put every bit of food scraps into the steel bins or you’ll be feeding the rats.

You can still compost yard trimmings, leaves, straw, and livestock manure in an open pile, but keep in mind, it’s the perfect place for a rat to nest. To keep them out of there, soak the pile frequently with water and turn it over with a pitchfork every few days to disrupt any would-be rodent dwellings.

Chickens eating greens outside

Step 3: Starve The Rats Out

The number one reason you have rats is because you’re feeding them. I know you’re not standing in the backyard tossing food on the ground and calling all the rodents of the neighborhood over, but if they’re on your property it’s because you’ve got the goods and you’re handing it right to them.

The one and only way to get rid of rats forever is to cut off all food sources. In order to do this, you’re going to have to cover all bases.

They will never, and I mean never leave if you continue to provide food for them. You can trap and poison them by the thousands, but more will come if there’s still food. If you feed them, they will come.

Did I get that point across? Okay, now let’s investigate how you’re feeding the rats.

Collect Eggs Frequently

Rats don’t love raw eggs, they prefer for you to cook them first, but they will steal and eat them if they have nothing else to eat.

Keep up on egg collection and never leave eggs in the coop overnight. A friend of mine was wondering why her eggs were disappearing from her nesting boxes every day and was just about to blame the chickens when she dug around in the box and found a whole nest of baby rats living there.

What a perfect place for a rat to live!

Contain your Chicken Food

This is a big one. Most chicken folk keep their chicken feed outside, where it’s convenient. Most of them also keep the feed in plastic bins. Rats can chew through a plastic bin in an hour and feed from it all night.

Instead, keep your livestock and pet food in steel garbage cans with a tight fitting lid. Any other type of container can (and will) be chewed through in a matter of hours.

Alternately you can keep the chicken feed in your house and only bring a days worth of food to the coop at a time.

A hen eating her chicken feed

Don’t Leave the Trash Out

Rats will chew through plastic trash bins and fatten themselves up on your garbage every night. Either store your outdoor trash in a steel garbage can with a tight lid, in a garage or shed, or wait until garbage day to take it outside.

This doesn’t have to be a forever thing, but until you get this situation under control you have to starve the rats out in every way possible.

Don’t Leave the Chicken Feeder or Water Fount Out at Night

If the chicken feeder and water fount are sitting out all night, that means there are rats eating and drinking from them all night. This is not only providing sustenance to the rats, but risking the health of your flock if the rats pass on their diseases and parasites through food and water.

Even if you have hanging feeders and water founts, the rats can access them because they can jump and climb very easily.

Three ways to protect food and water from rats:

  1. Bring the feeder and fount inside your house every night and take them back out every morning.

2. Figure out exactly how much food your chickens need and only feed them that amount every day.

3. Get a rat-proof chicken feeder. There are a number of treadle style feeders on the market that can help to keep rodents out of the chicken feed. Using a treadle feeder means your chickens can still access their food, but other animals like rodents and wild birds are cut off.

If you’re feeding the chickens snacks and table scraps throughout the day, clean any leftovers up before night as well. This includes Flock Blocks, which will keep a family of rats fed for months.

The point of this step is to leave absolutely no trace of anything edible on your property at night.

Keep small chicks inside at night

Desperate rats will do anything for food, including killing and eating a baby chick. We’ve had rats steal six week old chicks right out from under their mom at night and by the time Momma hen noticed, it was too late.

Protect your chicks from rats by keeping them in your home at night, when rats are most active.

Make sure the chicken yard is free of food waste

We all love to toss kitchen and garden scraps to our chickens while they hang out in the chicken run, but this can be a big detriment when you have a rodent problem. Rats will eat anything and everything, including the leftovers from your dinner that you lovingly fed to your birds. Either hold off on tossing these treats into the run for a few weeks, or clean up anything that the chickens haven’t eaten after a few hours.

A chick standing outside

Step 4: Go to War

The final step to getting rid of rats in the chicken coop is to flat-out go to war on any rats that are sticking around after the previous steps.

Get a barn cat

A good mouser is your best defense against a looming rat population. Not only do cats hunt and kill rats, but the scent of cats on your property will help to convince rodents not to make a home there.

Now, if you’re like us, and your lazy good-for-nothing cat would rather play with rats than hunt them, move onto the next step.

Set traps

We’ve found a few types of rat traps that work really well. The first is the Snap E Rat Trap is made from sturdy plastic, is easy as pie to set, and truly works. It’s fast and effective, killing the rat by breaking its neck. We use ours over and over again, they’ve been going for 10 years strong!

We bait the rats with chicken feed. Seriously. It’s what they’re after anyway, and when we realized they had no interest in peanut butter or meat, we tried chicken feed. It worked like a charm.

When we had a rat problem we would set ten traps per night and usually catch 2-6 rats every night.

Some tips for these traps:

  • Rats love to travel along the edges of walls as it feels safer. This is the best place to put your traps.
  • Make sure you only put the bait inside the little cup, not on the plate and not anywhere around the outside of the trap. If a rat accidentally sets it off by eating food spilled next to the trap and doesn’t get caught in it, it will remember not to go near it again.
  • Do not leave traps anywhere that other unsuspecting animals could get to them, such as your dog or the neighborhood cat. You especially don’t want your backyard chickens to have access to the traps. We usually block off the traps leaving only a small space for a rodent to get through.

We also love the Goodnature automatic trap. It’s more expensive than snap traps, but because it kills the rodent with a burst of air, it’s more humane and leaves less mess for you to clean up. This trap is also nice because it re-sets itself and can kill countless mice and rats in one night.

While we’re on the topic of traps, please never, ever resort to using glue traps. This is hands down the most inhumane and cruel way to get rid of a pest.

Even worse, glue traps usually kill other wildlife as well, such as songbirds, snakes, and small mammals. The goal is not to wipe out the animal population in your backyard. You can read more about the dangers of glue traps here.

If you can’t handle the idea of cleaning up dead rats at all, or want to solve your problem with humane traps you can always get a Havahart Trap. These live traps capture the rat and keep it in a cage until you open the cage back up.

Then of course, you have the problem of handling a live rat, and finding somewhere else for it to go. Most people don’t agree with using this solution for rats because no matter where you set it free, you’re dumping the problem on someone else, or wreaking havoc on a different ecosystem.

A rat trap

Rat Poison

I’m going to say this right at the start: beware the use of poisons. This should be your last resort if nothing else is working. I know it seems like an easy fix to a big problem, but using poison to get rid of rodents could lead to bigger problems down the road.

If a poisoned rodent were to die anywhere out in the open, it could be eaten by your chickens, your cat, your dog, or neighborhood wildlife. This means poisoning the rat is effectively poisoning other animals as well.

Another downside to poison is that over the years rats have developed immunity to many poisons, and others they’ve just learned not to eat it. This means you’ll have to frequently change the type of poison as one won’t work for long.

Even if you do manage to get the rats to eat the poison and they do die from it, they will likely die in a very hard to reach place, such as underneath the coop or within its walls, and you’ll be reminded daily of this horrible mistake by the stench.

If you do decide to use poisons to get rid of rats in your coop, it would be a good idea to use bait stations to dispense the poison so you don’t have to worry about your chickens or any other animal accidentally getting poisoned.

One alternative to poison that many chicken keepers have found to work is to mix up corn meal with plaster of paris. The rats will eat the mixture but not be able to digest the plaster and will die.

Again, this may result in rats dying in hard to reach places. But it does eliminate the possibility of your animals or wildlife getting poisoned if they find and eat the rat.

Hens behind a fenced door

Call a Professional

If you can’t get rid of rats on your own, you need more help than I can give you. I’m a big fan of doing things myself, and if you’re reading this, you probably are too. But sometimes you have to throw in the towel and bow down to your new rat overlords.

Just kidding!

Call rodent control and pay the big bucks to clean up this mess for you. Exterminators know exactly what they’re doing and can quickly help you with your rat problem.

Hopefully, these tips to help you get rid of rats will have your chicken coop rat-free in no time!

Rats aren’t your problem in the chicken coop but mice are? We’ve got a guide to help you get rid of mice too!

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Thursday 29th of June 2023

Wanted to say thanks for this detailed article. About a month or so ago, we started to notice small holes, about 2-3" in diameter, appear in the floor of our coop. For years, no issues, because we've kept the coop and pen very clean. We chalked the event up to the fact that squatters had been living in a home next door and they would complain of rats in the house they were squatting in - then the house mysteriously burned to the ground, so we're pretty sure that some of the rats were displaced to our coop. Anyhow, after reading this article, I've decided to shore up the floor of the coop with 1/2" x 1/2" hardware cloth, plus I purchased an electronic Victor rat trap yesterday ($47). Although we've never had to, we started to take in the water and food last night and set the trap with what they've been eating all along - chicken crumble - and we had our first rat within 3 hours - our second one this morning - both very large, too. Will add further updates, but very good article on what to do to take care of the issue. We know it'll be a while before we take care of the problem, but thanks for the advice Meredith!


Sunday 1st of January 2023

Terad3 is a Vitamin D3 rat poison. It's approved in and around food processing facilities and is EPA approved for organic farms and growers. The lethal dose is 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon to kill a male rat. Terad3 is not a secondary poison. Because it's dose dependent 15,000mg per kg of weight a far greater amount than 1/2 teaspoon will kill a hawk, chicken, cat, dog, etc. Worse that can happen if your dog munched on 3-4 dead carcasses would be vomiting them up. Use a commercial bait station which has 4 spindles/rods inside stacking 2 bait blox on each spindle. I also slather bacon grease on the stack of bloxs as added attraction. I feed water in main coop that is locked at night. For breeding pens and grow out pens I place feeder and water bucket in metal can over night. By depriving food and water, the rats are more likely to consume lethal dose within a night and die within 3-5 days typically in their burough/nest leaving no dead carcasses around and no decay stink. I'm comfortable keeping bait stations around for maintenance and know the poison is secure in the stations and if a dead rat is consumed, no secondary poisoning.

Jennifer Ferraez

Monday 13th of June 2022

THANK YOU for this and the following discussion! So helpful!!


Friday 19th of March 2021

I’m dealing with my second bout with rats. I’m using Rat X which is safe around other animals. It does something specifically to rats and dries them up so they die. I found one dead outside the chicken run so far. I bought a steel trash can to store the feed because they got in my garage and chewed through my plastic jugs of feed. I’m also going to try steel wool and hardware cloth for the holes in the dirt, and bringing the food in at night. Nasty critters! Thanks for the advice.


Friday 19th of March 2021

I have rats for the second time now. Last time I dropped poison blocks down their hole and covered it with a cinder block. That was over a year ago and I think I caught it early because I didn’t see any signs of them after a short time. This time they were not only in my coop but found their way into my garage where I store the chicken feed. They were chewing through my plastic jugs I used for the feed. I bought a steel trash can to store the food and set out traps. I also used Rat X which is safe for other animals. It does something to the rat’s system and dries them up. I found one dead in the yard outside the run, but they are still active. I’m going to try the steel wool and hardware cloth over the holes in the dirt. Plus I’ll start bringing in their food at night. Thanks for the advice!